見番横丁」タグアーカイブ

道路通称名

文学と神楽坂

 都や区は道路通称名として

(東京都)道路利用者に分かりやすく親しみやすい名称
(新宿区)「地域で古くから使われている名称」や「生活の利便性向上に寄与する名称」

を設定しています。

 神楽坂と関係する都道(道路通称名)は早稲田通り(千代田区九段北2丁目←→杉並区上井草4丁目)、大久保通り、外堀通りでしょう。

都道(https://www.kensetsu.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/content/000006191.pdf)

 区道では神楽坂通り、本多横丁、神楽坂仲通り、見番横丁、牛込中央通りがあげられます。この「神楽坂通り」は1丁目から5丁目までで、神楽坂6丁目の通りは誰がなんと言っても新宿区の真性の「神楽坂通り」ではありません。神楽坂1丁目から5丁目までは幅は12mのままですが、神楽坂6丁目は都道としていつか20mに広がります。

区道の道路通称名

区道の道路通称名

 さて、2つ、問題があります。1つは、早稲田通りで、神楽坂上交差点から神楽坂下交差点までの部分までです。西の方から神楽坂上交差点まで来ると、都道はここで終わり、区道の上から神楽坂下交差点に行き、さらに千代田区の区道に変わり、麹町警察署の飯田橋駅前交番を通り、九段中等学校前から田安門まで行く道です。田安門になって初めて都道になります。はい、現在もこの通りが早稲田通りです。おそらく、ここは昔は都道だったのです。いつ区道になったのか、不明です。

 また、早稲田通りの名前もなくなる理由はなく、神楽坂坂上から坂下までは正しく神楽坂通りと、昔からの早稲田通りの2つがあるのでしょう。

 2つ目の問題は、神楽小路、かくれんぼ横丁、毘沙門横丁、藁店、見返し横丁などの道路群です。これは新宿区の道路通称名にはありません。地元の方の話では、たとえば「見返し横丁」ではなく、「鳥静さんを入ったところ」などと使うほうがいいといいます。まあ、その通り。しかし、観光資源としては重要だといいます。私にとっては「鳥静さんを入ったところ」よりは「見返し横丁」のほうが簡単です。「鳥静とはなに」から話さないといけないし。しかし「見返し」なのか「見返り」なのか、どちらかに当たるのか、良く考えないとわかりません。もともと、あくまでも洒落や愛称のために使ったものだし。しかし、毘沙門横丁や藁店などの戦前から残した言葉は道路通称名として残るべきです。

 なお、地図を見ると、道路通称名がとりわけ多い部分があります。落合地区です。本当に多い。観光資源として重要ではないはずなのに。

区道道路通称名

 これは1925年から1936年の間、耕地整理を行い、耕地は碁盤目に整備したのです。2009年(平成21年)、ある神楽坂の人の話では、地元の町会が組織的に区役所に申請したため、道路通称名として認定されたといいます。


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牛込中央通り


毘沙門横丁

紅小路

ごくぼその路地

銀杏坂通り

見番横丁

新坂

見番横丁|神楽坂3丁目(360°パノラマVRカメラ)

文学と神楽坂

 見番横丁を見ておきたいと思います。下の写真では中央の灰色の道路が見番けんばん横丁です。その下の青い色の道路はここで登場する場所。さらに、右側に熱海湯階段があります。➀から⑫までは「見番横丁」で、㉑は「熱海湯階段」です。

 当然、全てが上下左右に360度、動きます。矢印をたたくと、前に進みます。

 写真は2019年6月2日です。この食堂たちは、5年後にどれだけが残っているのでしょうか。一応「食べログ」では「中むら」が最高点で4.07、次は「蕎楽亭」で3.88でした。

見番横丁

見番横丁


➁ 伏見火防稲荷神社標柱
➂ 神楽坂組合(芸者の組合)、バル「hajimenoippo 2」、ビアバー「スリジエ
➃ フレンチ「メゾン・ド・ラ・ブルゴーニュ
➅ 神楽坂3丁目テラス(鉄板焼き「中むら」、イタリアン「コグスダイニング」、神楽坂鮨 りんシマダカフェ
➆ 串焼き「串 358
⑩ 焼き鳥「文ちゃん
⑫ 生ビール「ザロイヤルスコッツマン」、イタリアン「Ristorante FIORE」、和食「ほそ川
⑬ 石臼挽き手打蕎楽亭

神楽坂|伏見火防稲荷神社

文学と神楽坂

 さて次に行きましょう。現在路地の右手に小さな稲荷神社があります。場所はここ
三叉路

 これが伏見ふしみ火防ひぶせ稲荷いなり神社です。

組合神社

 神社人(日本を楽しむ神社ファン・コミュニティサイト)によると総本社は伏見稲荷大社(京都府京都市伏見区)。ご祭神は、御魂みたま神。生産の神/五穀豊穣の神。商売繁盛、五穀豊穣などを祈願。参拝形式は、二拝二拍一拝。 つまり火の手から守ることです。
 もう少し近くに行ってみましょう。

神楽坂組合

 こうすると東京神楽坂組合(芸者の組合)や料亭松ケ枝などの名前が出ています。

 つまりこの小さな稲荷神社は東京神楽坂組合の祈りや希望もたくさん入っているんですね。

 実際に芸者さんが稽古に行ったりお座敷を行き帰りにお参りをしていくこともあるようです。

 次は見番横丁です。

神楽坂の通りと坂に戻る場合は

神楽坂|見番横丁(360°VRカメラ)


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文学と神楽坂

 神楽坂の見番(けんばん)横丁の東端はここです。見番(検番、券番)というのは芸妓組合の事務局のことです。

 正面に「神楽坂組合稽古場」が見えています。場所はここ

神楽坂組合 神楽坂組合

 また「見番けんばん横丁」の標柱があります。この標柱には

見番横丁
Kenban-yokocho
芸者衆の手配や、稽古を行う「見番」が沿道にあることから名付けられた。稽古場からは時折、情緒ある三味線の音が聞こえてくる

と書いてあります。

 時々ここ2階から三味線が聞こえてきます。嘘ではなく本当にです。ここでT字路になります。360°カメラでは、伏見火防稲荷神社から、見番横丁、神楽坂組合稽古場、メゾン・ド・ラ・ブルゴーニュ、熱海湯階段です。

 また下の写真は360°のカメラでとったものです。上下左右に動き、また矢印をたたくとその方向に移動して別の写真になります。

 三差路で、左手に行くと熱海湯階段です。

 ここから右に曲がって進むと

見番2

 左手はフランス料理の「メゾン・ド・ラ・ブルゴーニュ」が見えます。場所はここ

ブルゴーニュ

 さらに右に進むと、地下に有名な鉄板焼き「中むら」が入るビル「神楽坂三丁目テラス」があります。千本格子の模様があります。「中むら」のシェフは帝国ホテルの鉄板焼「嘉門」で勤めていました。値段は8400円など。場所はここ

 

 さらに行くと、焼鳥の「文ちゃん」が地下1階に出てきます。お任せ8本で4300円。昔の「伊勢籐」と似ていると、思います。場所は地下一階のここ文ちゃん

 ここで見番横丁は終わりですが…

 最近、「Vietnam Alice」ができました。神楽坂では初めてのベトナム料理店です。日本的なベトナム料理店ですが、それでもできるのは嬉しい。(しかし、2019年春、閉店)

拝啓、父上様」で田原一平が坂下夢子から携帯で呼び出されたY字の路地はここ(↓)です。3叉

 なおY字の右手は見番横丁ですが、Y字の左手は「三つ叉通り」だと『ここは牛込、神楽坂』第13号の座談会でいっています。三つ叉通りの一角で割烹「弥生」は終了し、2018年5月に日本料理「ほそ川」に変わりました。

 ここから地図の右手は元の見番横丁から伏見火防稲荷神社に戻ります。

 左手は五十番や昔の神楽坂演芸場に出る場所です。

神楽坂の通りと坂に戻る場合


神楽坂|東京神楽坂組合

文学と神楽坂

 伏見火防稲荷神社があり、次に「見番けんばん横丁」の標柱があります。この標柱には

見番横丁
Kenban-yokocho
芸者衆の手配や、稽古を行う「見番」が沿道にあることから名付けられた。稽古場からは時折、情緒ある三味線の音が聞こえてくる

と書いてあります。平成23年(2011年)12月22日に新宿区はここから図では左手の方向に見える路地を見番横丁という名前を付けました。 

青い標柱の裏の建物は、全く普通の建物ですが、これが見番を行う建物です。場所はここ。見番は検番とも書き、芸者衆の手配、玉代の計算などを行う花柳界の事務所や稽古場のことです。東京神楽坂組合の稽古場はこの上の建物になっています。

見番5

 少し左を見て、この建物も東京神楽坂組合の建物で、事務所に当たります。

 なお、東京神楽坂組合は田中角栄が建てた家としても有名ですね。
 ここで 熱海湯階段に行く場合は ここ
 見番横丁に行く場合は ここ
 伏見火防稲荷神社

神楽坂の通りと坂に戻る場合は

文学と神楽坂

神楽坂3丁目 熱海湯階段


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文学と神楽坂

 いかにも私道に見えるほうに進みましょう。私たちの方角では左のほうで、見番横丁とは反対の方向です。この路地にはいっていきます。

熱海湯に行く道

 矢印を叩くと地図は奥に進み、地図のポインタ、つまり手のアイコンは360度動きます。

 この正面を右側に回ると、下に行く階段が出てきます。

フランス坂1フランス

 ととととと歩くと…
フランス坂3熱海湯階段
 それで終わりです。この階段や路地は「熱海湯階段」、「熱海坂」、「一番湯の路地」、「フランスの坂」、「芸者小路」、「カラン坂」などと呼んでいます。

 なぜ有名になったのか? やはりテレビ番組「拝啓、父上様」ではないでしょうか? それまではこの階段、まあ有名でも、ものすごく有名ではありませんでした。それが、階段を下りる「ナオミ」の持つ箱からりんごが何十個かこぼれて落ちて、主役の「田原一平」役の二宮和也はリンゴを何個も拾い上げて、 これで田原君は1目ぼれです。 なぜナオミはこの階段にいたの? りんごはどこで買ったの? りんごをどこにもっていくの? などとは聞かないこと。しかし、この階段、和可奈の兵庫横丁よりも沢山でてきます。

 なお、2017年以前のいつかから、少し変わりました。テラスができたのです。

 しかし、この階段が大好きな人もいます。たとえばパリジェンヌのドラ・トーザンです。『東京のプチ・パリですてきな街暮らし』の一節で

私は熱海湯のところから鳥茶屋別邸を横に見て上がっていく坂をフランス坂と呼んでいます。まさにフランス坂と私が命名したようにとてもパリの雰囲気をもっています。

と書いてありました。

GE DIGITAL CAMERA

 当時「熱海湯」を上がった芸者はここを通って神楽坂に行ったといいます。この下に音声ガイドつきの「芸者小路」がありますが、行ったときは電話の相手は不通になっていました。なお、芸者はここで書いています。



もとに戻って神楽坂4丁目へ行く場合は
見番横丁に行く場合は
神楽坂の通りと坂をご覧ください

神楽坂|御旅所について

文学と神楽坂

さらに神楽坂通りを上がりますが、左に細い路地があります。ここを入ってみます。かのテレビドラマ「拝啓、父上様」でリンゴが20個ぐらい転がった階段がここにあるのです。
しかし、そこに行く前に……
最初は「高田穴八幡()旅所(たびしょ)」について。下の絵では四角で囲んだ場所が3つあり、上は「毘沙門堂」、右は「こんぴら」、左下は「高田八まん御旅所」です。また、この画讃には『月毎の寅の日には参詣夥しく植木等の諸商人市をなして賑へり』と書かれています。御旅所

御旅所とは神(一般には神体を乗せた神輿)が巡幸の途中で休憩や宿泊する場所です。
 
この「高田八まん御旅所」は、安政4年改「市ヶ谷牛込絵図」(1857年)では「穴八幡旅所」ときちんと書いてあります。
 
西早稲田にある穴八幡宮からの神輿がこの御旅所にやって来て、神輿はよく奏し、これが神楽坂の名前になったという説があります。
 
この御旅所の場所はヤマダヤ丸岡陶苑などがある場所でした。
地図18571

ちなみに1860年、御旅所はもうなくなっています。下に青色の代地の隣にあったはずです。いったいどうしたのでしょうか。不思議です。
絵図次は伏見火防稲荷神社見番横丁芸者小路にいきましょう。
 
神楽坂の通りと坂に戻る場合は